Costume Research

“The afternoon line-up began with a keynote presentation from Chloe Middleton-Metcalfe […] Her presentation explored definitions of folk, with special regard to costume. It provided a strong and inclusive theoretical underpinning to the project’s approach, exploring the survival, adaptation and becoming of folk customs with a powerful understanding of how customs continue and thrive. A participatory exercise invited audience members to vote on items of clothing “folk or not folk?” set a baseline for simple, yet expansive and thoughtful boundaries in which to define folk without being didactic.” Sefryn Penrose, Interim Evolution Report “Making more Mischief” Museum of British Folklore at the London College of Fashion, 2024.

Esperance Club established by Mary Neal. Original image now at the VWML

Original Research

2024. Beginners Guide to English Folk Dance Costumes. English Folk Dance and Song Society.  First published in 20142023. ‘(Re)Defining British Folk Costume: An introductory essay for Making Mischief: Folk Costume in Britain Exhibition by the Museum of British Folklore Held at Compton Verney 11.2.2023-11.6.2023’. Originally published on the Compton Verney Website.

2021. Considering Morris Dance Costumes as English National Dress. Online Talk. Available Here: The Morris Federation Lecture Series. 6.11.21. Via Zoom. Independent write up here

2021. The History and Development of Dark Border Morris. The Morris Federation. Available Here:

2017. ‘Why Do Morris Dancers Wear White?’ The Historical Dance Society and the English Folk Dance and Song Society. The Histories of Morris in Britain. Camden, London. 25.3.2017. Published in the conference proceedings. Available Here:

2013. A Shameful Conquest of Itself: An Investigation into Non-Existence : England’s National Costume. Chloe Elizabeth Metcalfe. MA Essay Bath Spa University: Investigating Fashion Design.  Unpublished Research available on request from the Vaughan Williams Memorial Library.  

2013. Historicism and Modernity: English Folk Dance Costumes for Clog and Sword Dancing. Chloe Elizabeth Metcalfe. MA Thesis Bath Spa University: Investigating Fashion Design. Unpublished Research available on request from the Vaughan Williams Memorial Library.  

2012. ‘In Clean White Shirts and Trousers: Morris Costumes for Cotswold Morris.’ Morris Federation Newsletter – Summer 2012 pp.20-23. Available Here:

2012. Rags, Bells and Baldrics: A Study of Morris Dance Costumes Past, Present and Future. Chloe Elizabeth Metcalfe. Undergraduate Thesis. Central School of Speech and Drama. BA (hons) Theatre Practice (Costume Construction). Unpublished Research available on request from the Vaughan Williams Memorial Library.